Via Maffia, 31r
This vast space on a side street right off Piazza Santo Spirito used to be part of a pilgrim's hospice. It has now been transformed into a little bit of Naples in the Oltrarno. Full of atmosphere, huge Neapolitan angels fly overhead and garlands of tomatoes are draped from the walls. Come here for a cocktail at their stylish bar and follow up with a genuine Naples-style pizza or calzone made in a wood-burning pizza oven; there are dozens of toppings to choose from. Not in the mood for pizza? Seafood pasta and fresh fish are on the menu, too, and the desserts are divine. Open for dinner only; every Wednesday night starting at 9pm there's live Neapolitan music.