Select Italy Newsletter
Italy: Country of Saints, Country of Pilgrims
assisi

Assisi with the snow-capped Mount Subasio in the background.

Italy is getting ready to embrace the faithful who will arrive this spring from all over the globe for their own spiritual benefit and to witness two historic events of great significance for the Christian World. If you are a Catholic and wish to share your prayers with the rest of the Catholic Community, you can’t miss the first appointment in Turin. In the cathedral of this cosmopolitan city, located on the left bank of the Po River and encircled by the Alpine arch, the Holy Shroud will be displayed between the 10th of April and the 23rd of May. This will be the Shroud’s first public display after its 2002 restoration and a sense of excitement is already growing in the city as its citizens await His Holiness the Pope to join them in this spiritual journey. Advance booking is mandatory, as a large number of pilgrims are expected to reach the city for the event.

Moving from the north to the center of the country, intense moments of shared prayer can also be experienced in Rome on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the dies natalis of Giovanni Maria Vianney, Patron Saint of all priests, scheduled for June 9th to 11th. The Vatican has already invited everyone to take part in what will be the feast of the “Universal Church.” Solemn celebrations that include the international meeting of priests will close the “Year of the Priest,” opened by Pope Benedict XVI last June. The main functions will take place in St. Peter’s Basilica but you can also experience moments of contemplation and silent prayer by undertaking the pilgrimage of the Seven Churches for which tours are always available.

mount subasio

Mount Subasio in the distance as seen from the Tiber valley.

Also in central Italy, the Feast of Corpus Christi (“Body of Christ”) is celebrated annually in Orvieto in June. Orvieto is an urban jewel from the Middle Ages, situated on the top of a volcanic tuff hill, just an hour's drive from Rome and the feast combines both religious and popular traditions. The day starts with the display and adoration of the blood-stained linen cloth, called the “Corporal of Bolsena.” According to the Catholic Church, in 1263 a consecrated host began to bleed onto the corporal of a skeptical priest and this was considered evidence of the doctrine of Transubstantiation. Subsequently, the priests march together with over 400 figures wearing historical dress; a colorful and moving procession that animates Orvieto’s picturesque paved streets and medieval architecture. This event makes for a great one-day excursion from Rome. For those who care to stay a bit longer, the area offers multiple options in both town and country, as well as family-friendly accommodations for every budget.

If you're unable to make it to Orvieto at that time of year, you can retreat on an intimate journey to nearby Assisi to retrace the footsteps of St. Francis. An in-depth exploration of this little town imbued with the spirit of the patron saint of Italy can do wonders for the soul. Assisi features many quiet corners for meditation in sanctuaries dominated by the natural beauty of the Umbrian hills; most prominently, Mount Subasio, St. Francis' favorite place to go for prayer and meditation. The mount – a bold, treeless, dome-shaped hill – makes for a great hike if you want you walk the same slope than St. Francis once climbed. Moreover, the site features several medieval monuments and even some ancient Roman remains. If you wish to stay in the area, there are places that resonate with the name Angels, while if you prefer a more central base, there are also lovely accommodations in town. Finally, for those who want to relax their bodies as well as their minds, a cozy spa hotel can offer both tranquility and comfort – the most relaxing option of all is Select Italy's convenient 4-night package.

San Giovanni Rotondo

The new church dedicated to Padre Pio in San Giovanni Rotondo and designed by Renzo Piano.

Moving further south, the region of Apulia boasts San Giovanni Rotondo, the second most visited Catholic shrine in the world. It is dedicated to Padre Pio (San Pio since his canonization on June 16, 2002) who is revered across the planet – thousands of pious followers make the pilgrimage each year to the saint's shrine. A visit to San Giovanni Rotondo provides the possibility to admire the new church erected in his honor, an architectural masterpiece by the renowned Genoese architect Renzo Piano.

 
An Extraordinary Event:
The Display of the Holy Shroud in Turin
The Holy Shroud of Turin

The Holy Shroud of Turin.

The Holy Shroud of Turin, revered by many Christians as the cloth Jesus was wrapped in when He was placed in His tomb, will be exhibited in the Cathedral of Turin from April 10 to May 23, 2010. This is the longest period that it has ever been shown and the first opportunity for the public to view the Shroud since its extensive restoration in 2002. While the Shroud's origin remains a matter of discussion among scientists and skeptics, for the faithful it remains one of the holiest Christian relics and an important proof of the Resurrection.

This fragile linen cloth, which measures 14.5 x 3.9 feet, bears the image in reverse of the front and back of a long-haired, bearded man who appears to have suffered wounds that match the description in the Gospels of Jesus' Crucifixion. In the words of Pope Benedict XVI, the exhibition “will provide an appropriate moment to contemplate that mysterious face which silently speaks to the hearts of men, inviting them to recognize therein the face of God.”

The reservation service offered by Select Italy provides the possibility to receive ticket confirmation at a preferred date and time (depending on availability). Tickets are free, but a confirmed booking is mandatory to access Turin's Duomo where the Holy Shroud will be displayed in a spectacular Baroque chapel especially designed for that purpose in 1668 by the architect Guarino Guarini. Moreover, the route that pilgrims follow to reach the Shroud exposes them to some of the city’s most characteristic sights: Piazza Castello, the Royal Gardens, the Manica Nuova (New Wing) of the Palazzo Reale, the Bastions of the former city walls, the ancient Roman Theater, the Cathedral bell tower and the Palazzo Chiablese where, if they wish, they can stop for a prayer or the Eucharist after viewing the Holy Shroud.

To maximize your time in Turin, we recommend buying a Torino+Piemonte Card. Not only does it provide free admission to more than 160 museums and cultural sites throughout the region but it also guarantees free travel on Turin’s above-ground public transport system and free access to the panoramic lift in the Mole Antonelliana and the GTT shuttle bus out to Venaria Reale.

Diana Room

The marvelous Diana Room in the Reggia di Venaria Reale.

For sheer splendor, nothing beats Venaria Reale (Piazza Repubblica 4, tel. 011-5623530; closed Monday) located 20 minutes north of the city. This Royal Hunting Lodge and former summer residence of the Savoy rulers was the model for Versailles. Two decades and 200 million euro were spent on its painstaking restoration, resulting in Europe's largest restoration project to date and a UNESCO Property of Humanity. The Venaria Reale complex consists of the Royal Palace with its two miles of rooms including the marvelous "Diana Room," acres of formal gardens, the royal stables (now used for special exhibitions), an orangerie, Juvarra's Chapel of San Uberto and an entire self-supporting village that allowed the Savoy to play at being “normal citizens.” It takes almost a whole day to see but is well worth it, especially in springtime when the flowers are in bloom.

And to continue the religious theme, you can have dinner at La Badessa (Piazza Carlo Emanuele II 17/h, tel. 011-835940; closed Sunday and Monday), situated between the central Piazza San Carlo and the Po River. The restaurant takes its inspiration from a noble abbess (badessa in Italian) who, in the 19th century, was known to be a famous cook. There are three special four-course menus, reasonably priced at around 30,00 euro, and all the wines, oils, marmalades and liquors are strictly produced in convents. Furniture from ancient monasteries decorates the interior while in nice weather tables are set up outside in the leafy piazza.

 
Signs of Continuity
Parco della Musica

Aerial view of the “3 beetles” as Roman have nicknamed the Parco della Musica Auditorium.

When most people think of Rome, they imagine its ruins, grandiose Renaissance palaces, magnificent Baroque churches, and ornate fountains. After all, those vestiges of Rome’s proud architectural past make the Eternal City, well, eternal.

However, Rome is also a city of contrasts, where the ancient artifacts of yesteryear co-exist with boldly modern edifices in an eclectic – and sometimes surprising – mix of styles. Just look at the recent Auditorium Complex Parco della Musica by famous architect Renzo Piano (see its rich seasonal calendar of Musical Events and performances), or Richard Meier's controversial Ara Pacis complex (the “Altar of Peace," conceived by Emperor Augustus after his successful 16-13 B.C. military campaigns and actually built in 9 B.C.), both of which characterize the juxtaposition of contemporary and centuries-old designs. In fact, Meier already has left his mark with his stunning Tor Tre Teste church: a courageous visionary building erected in 2003 in a nondescript suburb of the city.

maxxi museum

The futuristic and elegant MAXXI, opening its doors in Spring 2010.

Now, another cutting-edge structure joins Rome’s diverse architectural landscape – the MAXXI New Museum, located on via Guido Reni on the grounds of former military barracks in Rome's Flaminio district. The name comes from the blending of the words "Modern Art" (or "MA") and XXI, number 21 in Roman numerals, which is not a coincidence since the building’s concrete white walls, stark black steel stairs, a glass roof that filters in natural light, and clean, unadorned lines, are a fitting representation of 21st century design.

Officially called the National Museum of the XXI Century Arts, the building houses two museums - MAXXI Art and MAXXI Architecture. It was designed by the Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, the first woman to win, in 2004, the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize. Hadid was selected from among 273 candidates because, according to Italy’s Special Superintendency for Contemporary Art, her previous work demonstrated a “convincing and skillful integration within the urban context,” a quality that helped her create and seamlessly incorporate the futuristic museum into a traditional residential neighborhood in close proximity to Rome’s historic center.

Ara Pacis

Drops of light kiss the 2,000-year-old Ara Pacis, through 21st century windows.

Rome was not built in one day (or so the legend goes) and neither was the MAXXI. The project was first announced in 1998, and the construction of the 312,000 square-feet structure began at the dawn of the 21st century. In mid-November 2009, the completed but still-empty museum finally opened its doors for a quick public preview of its structure and sleek design – a work of art in its own right.

The official opening is scheduled for Spring 2010, with several exhibitions on display. Among them: “Spazio!” by an interdisciplinary group composed of Pippo Ciorra, Alessandro D'Onofrio, Bartolomeo Pietromarchi, Gabi Scardi and the MAXXI curators; catalogue by Stefano Chiodi and Domitilla Dardi - a unique pathway through the MAXXI Arts and MAXXI Architecture collections; and “1947-1998” by Achille Bonito Oliva, the first anthological exhibition devoted to the artist, accompanied by a catalogue which outlines not only the exhibition, but also his entire career.

Tor Tre Teste

Meier’s work with light is, once again, in the forefront in his “Tor Tre Teste” church.

The permanent exhibition of 300 works will include those of Balla, Morandi, De Chirico, De Pisis, Guttuso, Fontana, Kandinsky, Kapoor, Richter, Warhol and many others – a nice counterpoint to the classics that fill most of the city's other museums.

But that’s not all – the MAXXI will also be a research workshop, not just exhibiting contemporary art and architecture, but also featuring design, fashion, as well as film and advertising in a multidisciplinary cultural center.

The MAXXI is one more compelling reason – if one is still needed – to visit Italy this spring. Select Italy offers a new Private Walking Tour to discover the contemporary architectural masterpieces as an example of Rome's ever-changing landscape and a reminder of how the Eternal City doesn’t want to remain frozen in time.

food section t4t Restaurant of the Month: Where to Eat in ....?
Villa Paganini

A corner at Ristorante Villa Paganini.

...Rome. One of the questions we are frequently asked is "where should we go for dinner?" meaning "where is it that the locals go and the chances to find a tourist are slim?". One such place in Rome is Ristorante Villa Paganini, located on a semi-hidden side street off the Via Nomentana and right next to the public garden holding the same name. This is a great place to go with family or friends, to enjoy the casual elegant environment, the appropriate room noise and an excellent cuisine that combines tradition and innovation with great elegance. There is also a certain element of surprise, since part of the menu changes daily based on market availability: octopus salad, fried whitebait and fish carpaccio are among the appetizers one may find, while Sardinian fregola with shellfish or spaghetti with sea urchins are popular first courses.

Linguine al granchione

Linguine al granchione (Linguine with "big crab").

As you are seated, complimentary Prosecco and a particularly enjoyable bread basket materialize on the table to welcome you. A few minutes later, a competent maître d' comes to describe the non-written menu of the day. Questions are welcomed and answers help to make sometimes not-so-easy decisions. Service is courteous and discreet, and plates are brought to the table at the right pace. The wine list is rich, specializing in Italian wines with a bounty to discover among Sardinian wines, all well-presented by the in-house sommelier. Desserts offer new pleasures to the palate and sampling plates are often the best choice. Reservations are recommended. Approximately $80-$100/person.

RISTORANTE VILLA PAGANINI - Rome
Vicolo della Fontana, 28 [at Via Nomentana] - 00198 Rome
Phone: 06-4423-1448; F: 06-4425-2541
http://www.ristorantevillapaganini.it/
Email: info@ristorantevillapaganini.it

Recipe of the Month:
Farfalle con Crema d’Asiago e Speck Alto Adige
farfalle con crema d'asiago

Farfalle con Crema d’Asiago e Speck Alto Adige.

Ingredients

  • 12 ounces uncooked Farfalle (bowtie pasta)
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup all purpose flour
  • 4 cups 1% milk
  • 1 ½ cups shredded Asiago D’Allevo DOP (approximately 4 ounces by weight)
  • 1 ½ cups shredded Asiago Pressato DOP (approximately 4 ounces by weight)
  • 6 ounce piece Speck Alto Adige IGP, diced (approximately 1 cup by volume)
  • freshly-ground black pepper

Equipment
Pasta pot, 4-quart saucepan, balloon whisk, 9 x 12 inch casserole dish

Instructions

  • Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
  • Cook pasta to al dente stage (see Cook’s Tips below). Drain. Return to pasta pot and set aside.
  • Mix cheese together in a large bowl. Divide as follows: 2 cups for sauce and 1 cup for topping.
  • In a 4-quart saucepan, melt butter and whisk in flour; the mixture will be dry. Cook 2 minutes and add 1 cup of the milk. Whisk until smooth. Add remaining milk and whisk again until smooth. Cook until thickened, approximately 3-5 minutes.
  • Remove pan from heat. Gradually add the first 2 cups cheese ½ cup at a time, whisking until smooth. Season with a few turns of fresh black pepper. Stir in diced Speck.
  • Add Asiago cheese and Speck sauce to pasta. Mix well. Place in casserole dish. Top with remaining 1 cup Asiago Pressato.
  • Bake at 375 degrees for approximately 20 minutes until casserole is golden brown and bubbly.
  • Variation: Do not bake the pasta if you like a more moist pasta dish.

Cook’s Tips
Remember to cook pasta in at least 4-6 quarts of water. Cooking pasta in too small a pot or too little water will result in sticky, gummy pasta. Using a larger pot than you think you will need is a good idea. This dish freezes well.

FOOD STORE - Offer of the Month

Let's start 2010 with a "Tasty Bundle!"

  • FREE 1-year subscription to La Cucina Italiana
  • FREE 1/2 lb of authentic Parmigiano Reggiano added to your order
  • FREE shipment on all orders of $80.00 or more

Parmigiano Reggiano
Dubbed the "king of cheeses," Parmigiano Reggiano is one of the most celebrated hard cheeses in the world. Produced with raw cow's milk, this cheese has been made in Emilia Romagna using exactly the same methods for at least 800 years. In the Po River Valley, free-range cows in the five provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Mantova, Modena and Bologna feed on a special diet of fresh grass, corn, oats, barley, and soy to enrich their flavorful milk. Naturally lower in fat, Parmigiano Reggiano is made by combining the partially-skimmed milk of the evening milking with full-fat morning milk and heated with whey and rennet in large copper vessels. Once the curd is broken up and the whey has been separated out, the cheese curds are pressed into forms, salted in brine, and aged anywhere from 18-36 months. Its long aging process makes Parmigiano Reggiano easy to digest and is also responsible for the small white crystals of amino-acids that form throughout the cheese and provide its characteristic crunch. Sweet and salty, with nutty and caramel flavors, Parmigiano Reggiano is classic grated over pasta and perfect eaten by the chunk with cured meats, nuts and fruit, or drizzled with a bit of balsamic vinegar.

select italy food Select Italy's new online food store represents a proud partnership with Di Palo’s Fine Foods. At  http://food.selectitaly.com, online shoppers will find a carefully curated range of specialty items imported directly from Italy. The Select Italy Food Store makes it a breeze to bring the best of Italy right to your door.
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