On the Road in the Province of Pisa
by Andrea Sertoli
View of a kitchen at Villa Montaperti
I have just returned from a very interesting research trip to the Pisa region. As it often happens with other
Italian regions, the Province of Pisa encompasses a portion of Tuscany that remains largely unknown to most
American travelers. The reasons are similar to those of Venice and the Veneto region. There, Venice's gravity
seems to exert a stronger pull than the other beauties of the region, despite their easy access. In the Pisa
province, this phenomenon replicates itself with even greater intensity and the shadow of the Leaning Tower –
perhaps the most popular symbol of Italy – seems to leave little space to discover an area that I have found to
be smooth of access, beautiful in its variety of hill and valley landscapes, and enriched by the rare passion and
authenticity of its inhabitants.
The American traveler can now take advantage of a direct New York City (JFK) to Pisa flight. With its 4 million
passengers per year, Pisa's International Airport
has effectively become the main airport of Tuscany, providing an exceptionally convenient point of entrance
to the region. Not only are Florence 70 miles (112 km), Lucca 25 miles (40 km) and Siena 107 miles (172 km) away, but
inside such an "ideal triangle" lies a region blessed with large valleys (such as the one of the Era river) and a sequence
of spectacular layers of rolling hills, covered by lush woods or painted with the alternating green and yellow tones of farmed
fields. It’s a territory that I found fulfilling to the eye and soothing to the soul.
A wide selection of accommodation is available, with an accent on farmhouses and agriturismi, the Italian country
spin-off of the original Anglo-Saxon B&B tradition. The spread of such structures has fostered competition among properties
with the result being higher standards for the facilities (including one or more swimming pools) at comparatively better
prices than in other parts of Tuscany. An advantage to the traveler, indeed.
Cozy country rooms at Villa Montaperti
Some properties particularly caught my attention because of their location, style, inner beauty and spirit.
Villa Montaperti, for instance, not far from Volterra
is where you'll find Dorella, the enthusiastic and energetic owner who is on a mission together with her husband, Tullio, to
offer a taste of what Italian hospitality really means. Situated on a ridge with a bird’s eye view of the surrounding
countryside, it is one of those rare places where the love and dedication of the owners has boosted the cost of the 10-year
physical restoration of the premises to a much higher value for the guest. Similarly, I also loved the charming
Villa Le Rondini in Montopoli Valdarno (32
miles - or 52 km – from Florence), another manicured property with a lush garden, swimming pool and a "magnetic
force," ideal for recharging one’s own batteries.
One can get fancier too. The Varramista estate is a 400
hectare (approx. 1,000 acres) property formerly belonging to the Italian Piaggio-Agnelli dynasty (the inventors of the iconic
Vespa motorbike and owners of FIAT). There, the property offers a somewhat more austere setting, with elegant farmhouses
scattered amidst vineyards – excellent wine is produced here – and woods that find their center of gravity in the dominating main
villa, immersed in a park of secular trees. Cooks, butlers and a hair-dressing service are available on request, and the estate
also offers wine tasting and cooking classes. Should you feel ready for physical activity, mountain bikes can be rented to explore
the estate and tennis courts can be booked for an afternoon match.
Serious sunsets at Borgo di Colleoli
I must admit I left a small piece of my heart in a property that I loved for its style, design and that special “something”
that makes you feel good simply by staying there. The Borgo di Colleoli
Tuscany Resort in Palaia seems to have it all, starting with an unbeatable position on a ridge where the “sounds
of silence” are a tangible reality. All around are unspoiled views of rare Tuscan beauty. The variety of accommodations
anticipates each guest's different requirements: from those requiring a touch of extra luxury (with the rooms in the main villa) to
those traveling with children (a separate section of the property is reserved for them). On premises the I Secoli restaurant and the
l Concilio dei Sensi wine bar offer more than one reason to stay put. Here you can enjoy a snack,
aperitivo, lunch, a gourmet dinner or even a cooking class in the welcoming indoor or outdoor setting. Florence is only 38
miles away (61 km) and Siena 48 miles (78 km) for days you feel like exploring further afield.
Like elsewhere in Tuscany, food and wine production are embedded in the territory and its people. Virtually no property, farmhouse or
agriturismo lacks its own olive oil and wine production. One’s own selection soon turns into a matter of personal taste and
expertise since oil is a little bit like wine, with many types and tastes that reflect the olive's variety, the soil it was grown in,
agricultural practice and the season when this "golden juice" was extracted. When it comes to pasta, though, one needs to stop in
charming Lari and pay a visit to the Martelli traditional pasta-making factory,
belonging to the same family since 1926. There, you can witness an example of the most genuine and passionate Italian entrepreneurship
and learn all you need to know about top-of-the-line pasta. I can tell you that after meeting Dino, the family “chairman,” I don't look
at pasta in the same way I used to!
An inspiring setting at the Teatro del Silenzio
But there is so much more to discover in an area that also offers innovative and unique services. What to say of the inspiring Teatro
del Silenzio (the Theater of Silence) where once a year Andrea Bocelli performs outdoors under the starry skies? And I cannot forget
the enthusiasm at the Fattoria della Gioiosa where in addition to
leisure stays, the property also offers a fully-equipped music studio to professional musicians for music seminars and recordings sessions.
If you're planning on producing a new CD, then why not boost your creativity by bringing your band to beautiful surroundings with a full
range of hospitality services? Last but not least, and like other areas of Tuscany, the Pisa territory also has its own thermal spas. San
Giuliano Terme, with the Bagni di Pisa Spa Resort and its magnesia-rich sulfate
waters offers complete spa services to its guests, with an accent on weight loss and well-being.
There is much more to say about an area that is only beginning to be discovered and that still offers a comparative edge of affordability.
Should you want to learn more about this region or on any of the properties above, don't hesitate to contact us at Select Italy (800-877-1755)
to start planning your customized itinerary.
Blue Flags and "Culture Beaches"
Rows of beach chairs in Viareggio
Beach bums rejoice! The Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE) has just published their annual list of the world’s cleanest beaches
and 10% of the global total is in Italy. That’s 231 Italian beaches that are allowed to fly the much-coveted Bandiera Blu – the
Blue Flag awarded to the beach resorts that can meet the very stringent criteria
set by this international, non-profit organization.
Water quality is the first thing that is evaluated; to make the grade, the water must be absolutely limpid and clean with frequent microbiological
testing carried out. Then waste management and recycling is considered, as well as how energy efficient a resort is. The natural beach vegetation
or any coral reefs in the vicinity must be constantly monitored and the beaches should have sufficient handicapped access, an adequate number of
lifeguards and/or lifesaving equipment and no unauthorized camping, driving or dumping is allowed on the beach. Even man’s best friend must be
confined to special areas of the sand that are set aside just for dogs.
Blue Flag waters at La Maddalena, Sardinia
With tough requirements like these, it’s clear that only the very best of the best can hope to make the
list. But at Select Italy we know that North American
travelers don’t go to Italy just to work on their tans, so we’ve made our OWN list of what we call “culture beaches.” These are the
super-clean, Blue Flag beaches that also offer a summer music festival nearby. That means you can dedicate your days to swimming, sunning,
wind surfing or snorkeling at the beach and spend your evenings listening to sweet music – the perfect recipe for an idyllic Italian vacation!
Tuscany and Le Marche each have 16 beach resorts on the FEE list, and some of our favorites are Viareggio and Forte
dei Marmi in Tuscany and Pesaro in Le Marche. The Tuscan coast just north of Pisa boasts wide, sandy beaches and
well-equipped bathing establishments complete with umbrellas, lounge chairs and on-the-beach massages. Upscale Forte dei Marmi also holds an
outdoor market every Wednesday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. that draws shoppers from all over Tuscany in search of great bargains on Prada bags,
Tod’s shoes and name-brand polo shirts.
Viareggio is just six miles from Torre del Lago where from July 16-August 22, the
56th Puccini Opera Festival dedicated to celebrated local composer Giacomo Puccini will be held. Imagine hearing “Tosca”
or “Madama Butterfly” performed under the stars on a state-of-the-art outdoor stage overlooking the Lake of Massaciuccoli with the craggy Apuan
Alps as a backdrop. Pure bliss!
Villa Rufolo's stage overlooks the fabled Amalfi Coast
Cross to the other side of the Italian peninsula and facing the Adriatic Sea you'll find the compact, Renaissance city of Pesaro. It hosts the
31st Rossini Opera Festival from August 10-21; the
air-conditioned venues where the operas and concerts are staged are all within walking distance from the beach. They include the Teatro Rossini,
built in 1637 and last renovated in 2002; the Auditorium Pedrotti, dating from 1892, and the spacious and modern Adriatic Arena. In the event of
a (rare) rainy August day, the UNESCO World Monument duchy of Urbino is only a 20-minute drive away. This is where the famous
Renaissance painter Raphael was born, and a visit to Urbino's stupendous Ducal Palace shouldn't be missed.
Summer in southern Italy never seems to end so that's why the Ravello
Concert Society season lasts for seven months, from April to the end of October. Chamber music concerts, piano recitals and wind
ensemble performances are frequently held al fresco in the magnificent gardens of the Villa Rufolo overlooking the fabled Amalfi Coast
or in the Chiesa dell'Annunziata in the charming village of Scala, about a mile north of Ravello. During the day you can sun on the Blue Flag beach
at Positano, or maybe reserve one of Select Italy single-day boat trips to the island of
Capri or along the
Amalfi Coast.
So what are you waiting for? To reserve your "culture beach" vacation today, call Select Italy at (800) 877-1755.
Walking Tours for the Connoisseur
Toss a coin in the Trevi Fountain & come back to Rome
We've designed a trio of brand new, thematic, privately guided half-day walking tours to take your clients to parts of Rome
and Venice that they may not discover on their own, and to enthrall them with fascinating, little-known facts about these two
historic cities.
Our Fountains of Rome tour uses clear,
sparkling water as the connecting element in an entertaining and informative stroll through the Eternal City that will also appeal
to children. Further north, in Venice, the Republic’s centuries-long history becomes the basis for
Venice and the Plague and
Venice and the Orient, two tours for
connoisseurs in which the Black Death and the city’s perennial attraction to the Far East are the unifying themes.
Over 280 fountains are scattered throughout the Eternal City but it’s the "Top Ten” that are the basis for
Fountains of Rome. Starting with the most
famous of them all – the iconic Trevi Fountain – and winding through the historic center on a trail
that leads from the Spanish Steps to the Piazza Navona and ends at the charming Turtle Fountain in the Jewish ghetto, this walking tour
can’t help but delight your clients with its "refreshing" theme. It’s a great way to discover these unique treasures that so beautifully
combine functionality with art. Because each fountain tells a compelling story of Rome’s past and invites visitors, at the drop of a coin,
to come back again and again!
Mask worn by the Doctor of the Plague
A more somber subject is treated in Venice and the Plague:
between 1348 and 1509 the Black Death struck the city and its mainland possessions 28 times, continuously challenging Venice's very survival.
Its frightened citizens used a variety of methods to combat their fears including prayers to San Rocco, patron saint of plague victims; the
treatment of drinking water in the city’s numerous wells; developing specific masks and costumes to be worn by the "Doctors of the Plague"
and finally, in 1631, the construction on the Grand Canal of the immense white church of Santa Maria della Salute as a very visible votive
sanctuary.
Our final walking tour introduces your clients to a host of Eastern-influenced architecture including Moorish arches, Greek crosses and
sculptures with exotic themes. Cornerstones of Venice and the
Orient are two spectacular palaces: Palazzo Corner Spinelli, now the site of the celebrated Lorenzo Rubelli fabric and textiles
atelier, and the Fortuny Museum in Ca’ Pesaro. Silks, satins, brocades and precious patterned velvets are the unifying theme of this
tour, but the palate as well as the eye will be delighted by an optional coffee and chocolate tasting at Caffe' Florian in Piazza San Marco
that takes place at an outdoor table in sight of the imposing Oriental domes of St. Mark's Basilica.
To reserve one of these new tours, call Select Italy at (800) 877-1755.
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