Select Italy Newsletter
On the Road in the Province of Pisa
by Andrea Sertoli
Villa Montaperti

View of a kitchen at Villa Montaperti

I have just returned from a very interesting research trip to the Pisa region. As it often happens with other Italian regions, the Province of Pisa encompasses a portion of Tuscany that remains largely unknown to most American travelers. The reasons are similar to those of Venice and the Veneto region. There, Venice's gravity seems to exert a stronger pull than the other beauties of the region, despite their easy access. In the Pisa province, this phenomenon replicates itself with even greater intensity and the shadow of the Leaning Tower – perhaps the most popular symbol of Italy – seems to leave little space to discover an area that I have found to be smooth of access, beautiful in its variety of hill and valley landscapes, and enriched by the rare passion and authenticity of its inhabitants.

The American traveler can now take advantage of a direct New York City (JFK) to Pisa flight. With its 4 million passengers per year, Pisa's International Airport has effectively become the main airport of Tuscany, providing an exceptionally convenient point of entrance to the region. Not only are Florence 70 miles (112 km), Lucca 25 miles (40 km) and Siena 107 miles (172 km) away, but inside such an "ideal triangle" lies a region blessed with large valleys (such as the one of the Era river) and a sequence of spectacular layers of rolling hills, covered by lush woods or painted with the alternating green and yellow tones of farmed fields. It’s a territory that I found fulfilling to the eye and soothing to the soul.

A wide selection of accommodation is available, with an accent on farmhouses and agriturismi, the Italian country spin-off of the original Anglo-Saxon B&B tradition. The spread of such structures has fostered competition among properties with the result being higher standards for the facilities (including one or more swimming pools) at comparatively better prices than in other parts of Tuscany. An advantage to the traveler, indeed.

Montaperti room

Cozy country rooms at Villa Montaperti

Some properties particularly caught my attention because of their location, style, inner beauty and spirit. Villa Montaperti, for instance, not far from Volterra is where you'll find Dorella, the enthusiastic and energetic owner who is on a mission together with her husband, Tullio, to offer a taste of what Italian hospitality really means. Situated on a ridge with a bird’s eye view of the surrounding countryside, it is one of those rare places where the love and dedication of the owners has boosted the cost of the 10-year physical restoration of the premises to a much higher value for the guest. Similarly, I also loved the charming Villa Le Rondini in Montopoli Valdarno (32 miles - or 52 km – from Florence), another manicured property with a lush garden, swimming pool and a "magnetic force," ideal for recharging one’s own batteries.

One can get fancier too. The Varramista estate is a 400 hectare (approx. 1,000 acres) property formerly belonging to the Italian Piaggio-Agnelli dynasty (the inventors of the iconic Vespa motorbike and owners of FIAT). There, the property offers a somewhat more austere setting, with elegant farmhouses scattered amidst vineyards – excellent wine is produced here – and woods that find their center of gravity in the dominating main villa, immersed in a park of secular trees. Cooks, butlers and a hair-dressing service are available on request, and the estate also offers wine tasting and cooking classes. Should you feel ready for physical activity, mountain bikes can be rented to explore the estate and tennis courts can be booked for an afternoon match.

borgo di colleoli

Serious sunsets at Borgo di Colleoli

I must admit I left a small piece of my heart in a property that I loved for its style, design and that special “something” that makes you feel good simply by staying there. The Borgo di Colleoli Tuscany Resort in Palaia seems to have it all, starting with an unbeatable position on a ridge where the “sounds of silence” are a tangible reality. All around are unspoiled views of rare Tuscan beauty. The variety of accommodations anticipates each guest's different requirements: from those requiring a touch of extra luxury (with the rooms in the main villa) to those traveling with children (a separate section of the property is reserved for them). On premises the I Secoli restaurant and the l Concilio dei Sensi wine bar offer more than one reason to stay put. Here you can enjoy a snack, aperitivo, lunch, a gourmet dinner or even a cooking class in the welcoming indoor or outdoor setting. Florence is only 38 miles away (61 km) and Siena 48 miles (78 km) for days you feel like exploring further afield.

Like elsewhere in Tuscany, food and wine production are embedded in the territory and its people. Virtually no property, farmhouse or agriturismo lacks its own olive oil and wine production. One’s own selection soon turns into a matter of personal taste and expertise since oil is a little bit like wine, with many types and tastes that reflect the olive's variety, the soil it was grown in, agricultural practice and the season when this "golden juice" was extracted. When it comes to pasta, though, one needs to stop in charming Lari and pay a visit to the Martelli traditional pasta-making factory, belonging to the same family since 1926. There, you can witness an example of the most genuine and passionate Italian entrepreneurship and learn all you need to know about top-of-the-line pasta. I can tell you that after meeting Dino, the family “chairman,” I don't look at pasta in the same way I used to!

theater of silence

An inspiring setting at the Teatro del Silenzio

But there is so much more to discover in an area that also offers innovative and unique services. What to say of the inspiring Teatro del Silenzio (the Theater of Silence) where once a year Andrea Bocelli performs outdoors under the starry skies? And I cannot forget the enthusiasm at the Fattoria della Gioiosa where in addition to leisure stays, the property also offers a fully-equipped music studio to professional musicians for music seminars and recordings sessions. If you're planning on producing a new CD, then why not boost your creativity by bringing your band to beautiful surroundings with a full range of hospitality services? Last but not least, and like other areas of Tuscany, the Pisa territory also has its own thermal spas. San Giuliano Terme, with the Bagni di Pisa Spa Resort and its magnesia-rich sulfate waters offers complete spa services to its guests, with an accent on weight loss and well-being.

There is much more to say about an area that is only beginning to be discovered and that still offers a comparative edge of affordability. Should you want to learn more about this region or on any of the properties above, don't hesitate to contact us at Select Italy (800-877-1755) to start planning your customized itinerary.

 
Blue Flags and "Culture Beaches"
beach

Rows of beach chairs in Viareggio

Beach bums rejoice! The Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE) has just published their annual list of the world’s cleanest beaches and 10% of the global total is in Italy. That’s 231 Italian beaches that are allowed to fly the much-coveted Bandiera Blu – the Blue Flag awarded to the beach resorts that can meet the very stringent criteria set by this international, non-profit organization.

Water quality is the first thing that is evaluated; to make the grade, the water must be absolutely limpid and clean with frequent microbiological testing carried out. Then waste management and recycling is considered, as well as how energy efficient a resort is. The natural beach vegetation or any coral reefs in the vicinity must be constantly monitored and the beaches should have sufficient handicapped access, an adequate number of lifeguards and/or lifesaving equipment and no unauthorized camping, driving or dumping is allowed on the beach. Even man’s best friend must be confined to special areas of the sand that are set aside just for dogs.

beach boating

Blue Flag waters at La Maddalena, Sardinia

With tough requirements like these, it’s clear that only the very best of the best can hope to make the list. But at Select Italy we know that North American travelers don’t go to Italy just to work on their tans, so we’ve made our OWN list of what we call “culture beaches.” These are the super-clean, Blue Flag beaches that also offer a summer music festival nearby. That means you can dedicate your days to swimming, sunning, wind surfing or snorkeling at the beach and spend your evenings listening to sweet music – the perfect recipe for an idyllic Italian vacation!

Tuscany and Le Marche each have 16 beach resorts on the FEE list, and some of our favorites are Viareggio and Forte dei Marmi in Tuscany and Pesaro in Le Marche. The Tuscan coast just north of Pisa boasts wide, sandy beaches and well-equipped bathing establishments complete with umbrellas, lounge chairs and on-the-beach massages. Upscale Forte dei Marmi also holds an outdoor market every Wednesday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. that draws shoppers from all over Tuscany in search of great bargains on Prada bags, Tod’s shoes and name-brand polo shirts.

Viareggio is just six miles from Torre del Lago where from July 16-August 22, the 56th Puccini Opera Festival dedicated to celebrated local composer Giacomo Puccini will be held. Imagine hearing “Tosca” or “Madama Butterfly” performed under the stars on a state-of-the-art outdoor stage overlooking the Lake of Massaciuccoli with the craggy Apuan Alps as a backdrop. Pure bliss!

Villa Rufolo stage

Villa Rufolo's stage overlooks the fabled Amalfi Coast

Cross to the other side of the Italian peninsula and facing the Adriatic Sea you'll find the compact, Renaissance city of Pesaro. It hosts the 31st Rossini Opera Festival from August 10-21; the air-conditioned venues where the operas and concerts are staged are all within walking distance from the beach. They include the Teatro Rossini, built in 1637 and last renovated in 2002; the Auditorium Pedrotti, dating from 1892, and the spacious and modern Adriatic Arena. In the event of a (rare) rainy August day, the UNESCO World Monument duchy of Urbino is only a 20-minute drive away. This is where the famous Renaissance painter Raphael was born, and a visit to Urbino's stupendous Ducal Palace shouldn't be missed.

Summer in southern Italy never seems to end so that's why the Ravello Concert Society season lasts for seven months, from April to the end of October. Chamber music concerts, piano recitals and wind ensemble performances are frequently held al fresco in the magnificent gardens of the Villa Rufolo overlooking the fabled Amalfi Coast or in the Chiesa dell'Annunziata in the charming village of Scala, about a mile north of Ravello. During the day you can sun on the Blue Flag beach at Positano, or maybe reserve one of Select Italy single-day boat trips to the island of Capri or along the Amalfi Coast.

select italy icon So what are you waiting for? To reserve your "culture beach" vacation today, call Select Italy at (800) 877-1755.

Walking Tours for the Connoisseur
Trevi Fountain

Toss a coin in the Trevi Fountain & come back to Rome

We've designed a trio of brand new, thematic, privately guided half-day walking tours to take your clients to parts of Rome and Venice that they may not discover on their own, and to enthrall them with fascinating, little-known facts about these two historic cities.

Our Fountains of Rome tour uses clear, sparkling water as the connecting element in an entertaining and informative stroll through the Eternal City that will also appeal to children. Further north, in Venice, the Republic’s centuries-long history becomes the basis for Venice and the Plague and Venice and the Orient, two tours for connoisseurs in which the Black Death and the city’s perennial attraction to the Far East are the unifying themes.

Over 280 fountains are scattered throughout the Eternal City but it’s the "Top Ten” that are the basis for Fountains of Rome. Starting with the most famous of them all – the iconic Trevi Fountain – and winding through the historic center on a trail that leads from the Spanish Steps to the Piazza Navona and ends at the charming Turtle Fountain in the Jewish ghetto, this walking tour can’t help but delight your clients with its "refreshing" theme. It’s a great way to discover these unique treasures that so beautifully combine functionality with art. Because each fountain tells a compelling story of Rome’s past and invites visitors, at the drop of a coin, to come back again and again!

Plague Mask

Mask worn by the Doctor of the Plague

A more somber subject is treated in Venice and the Plague: between 1348 and 1509 the Black Death struck the city and its mainland possessions 28 times, continuously challenging Venice's very survival. Its frightened citizens used a variety of methods to combat their fears including prayers to San Rocco, patron saint of plague victims; the treatment of drinking water in the city’s numerous wells; developing specific masks and costumes to be worn by the "Doctors of the Plague" and finally, in 1631, the construction on the Grand Canal of the immense white church of Santa Maria della Salute as a very visible votive sanctuary.

Our final walking tour introduces your clients to a host of Eastern-influenced architecture including Moorish arches, Greek crosses and sculptures with exotic themes. Cornerstones of Venice and the Orient are two spectacular palaces: Palazzo Corner Spinelli, now the site of the celebrated Lorenzo Rubelli fabric and textiles atelier, and the Fortuny Museum in Ca’ Pesaro. Silks, satins, brocades and precious patterned velvets are the unifying theme of this tour, but the palate as well as the eye will be delighted by an optional coffee and chocolate tasting at Caffe' Florian in Piazza San Marco that takes place at an outdoor table in sight of the imposing Oriental domes of St. Mark's Basilica.

select italy icon To reserve one of these new tours, call Select Italy at (800) 877-1755.

food section Restaurant of the Month: "Where to eat in ...?"
tips 4 Travelers

After a day of sea and sun, it’s sometimes fun to get all dressed up and enjoy a memorable meal in a very special setting. La Caravella in Amalfi is just such a place. This award-winning restaurant has one Michelin star and, although it's been around for half a century, it also shares in the 1,100 year history of the once-powerful Maritime Republic of Amalfi. Three elegant dining rooms are installed in a medieval palace right next to the Arsenal where the ships and galleys that allowed Amalfi to rule the Mediterranean were built.

The restaurant’s signature dish is scialatielli, a kind of fat spaghetti in a shellfish sauce, but the pasticcio di crostacei con pistacchi, crema di zucca e ricotta di bufula (a baked pasta and shellfish dish with pistacchio nuts, creamy pumpkin and ricotta cheese) is justly famous too. Both the antipasto of fresh fish grilled in lemon leaves and the fried anchovies stuffed with smoked mozzarella di bufala perfectly highlight local fragrances and flavors. An unusual and “historic” dessert dating from 1959, the year La Caravella opened its doors, is the eggplant slices smothered in chocolate sauce accompanied by orange gelato made from citrus fruit grown in the Valle dei Mulini behind Amalfi.

La Caravella dining

Colorful ceramics decorate the tables at La Caravella

Special mention must be made of the outstanding wine cellar that boasts over 1,400 labels, with 20 different wines served by the glass. Chef and owner Antonio Dipino loves ceramics and a large collection of hand-painted Vietri plates, candelabra, wall plaques and sculptures decorate the dining room, examples of which can be purchased in their shop next door. Dinner runs about $90 per person; reservations recommended.

Ristorante La Caravella - Amalfi
Via Matteo Camera, 12 – 84011 Amalfi
Phone: 089-871029
Website: www.ristorantelacaravella.it
Email: info@ristorantelacaravella.it
Open for lunch and dinner; closed Tuesday.

 
Recipe of the Month: Turbot with Tomato Sauce
(Rombo su salsa al pomodoro)
Turbot with tomato sauce

Turbot with Tomato Sauce

This is simplicity at its best: fish with fresh herbs and a simple, tomato sauce. If turbot is unavailable, substitute lemon sole or another flaky white fish.

Ingredients (4 servings)

  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 celery rib, finely chopped
  • 1/3 cup finely chopped carrot
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
  • Pinch sugar
  • Fine sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
  • 1 1/3 pounds turbot fillets
  • 1 teaspoon finely chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as basil, chives, thyme, chervil and/or marjoram

Instructions
In a medium pot, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat; add celery, carrot and onion; reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes.

Add sugar and pinch each salt and pepper to vegetables; stir to combine. Add tomatoes and their juices. Cook at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, for 35 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat oven to 400°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Transfer tomato mixture to a blender and carefully purée until smooth; return sauce to pot, stir in 1/4 teaspoon salt and gently heat to warm through. Adjust seasoning, if desired.

Rinse fish and pat dry with paper towels; arrange in a single layer on baking sheet. Drizzle fish with remaining tablespoon oil, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with herbs. Bake until fish is opaque and cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Spoon sauce onto plates and top with fish.

la cucina Recipe courtesy of La Cucina Italiana -

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Parmigiano Reggiano
Dubbed the "king of cheeses," Parmigiano Reggiano is one of the most celebrated hard cheeses in the world. Produced with raw cow's milk, this cheese has been made in Emilia Romagna using exactly the same methods for at least 800 years. In the Po River Valley, free-range cows in the five provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Mantova, Modena and Bologna feed on a special diet of fresh grass, corn, oats, barley and soy to enrich their flavorful milk. Naturally lower in fat, Parmigiano Reggiano is made by combining the partially-skimmed milk of the evening milking with full-fat morning milk and heated with whey and rennet in large copper vessels. Once the curd is broken up and the whey has been separated out, the cheese curds are pressed into forms, salted in brine and aged anywhere from 18-36 months. Its long aging process makes Parmigiano Reggiano easy to digest and is also responsible for the small white crystals of amino-acids that form throughout the cheese and provide its characteristic crunch. Sweet and salty, with nutty and caramel flavors, Parmigiano Reggiano is classic grated over pasta and perfect eaten by the chunk with cured meats, nuts and fruit, or drizzled with a bit of balsamic vinegar.

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